laulau

Laulau is a cornerstone of traditional Hawaiian cuisine and a staple at any authentic luau or local family gathering. The word literally translates to "wrap" or "wrapped" in the Hawaiian language. Historically, Hawaiians prepared laulau by wrapping pork, salted butterfish, or chicken in layers of luau (taro) leaves, tying the bundle securely in tough ti leaves, and slow-cooking it in an imu (underground oven). Today, while many locals still use an imu for special occasions, everyday laulau is typically cooked in large stovetop steamers. The phrase is universally understood across Hawaii by residents of all backgrounds. It is used both as a noun to describe the dish itself and occasionally as a descriptor for anything bundled up tightly. Visitors should note that while the inner taro leaves are meant to be eaten and are highly nutritious, the outer ti leaf wrapper is fibrous and strictly used for cooking and presentation—do not attempt to eat it.

The heavy aluminum steamer had been rattling on the propane burner in the Keaukaha carport since eight in the morning. Now it was past two, the Sunday air thick with the earthy, sweet smell of steamed ti leaf and pork fat. Grandpa sat in his faded lawn chair, eyes half-closed, listening to the rhythmic hiss of the steam and the distant slap of waves against the breakwall. There was no rush. The rest of the house was still napping off their late breakfast.

"Eh, Papa, almost pau?" his teenage grandson called out from the screen door, rubbing sleep from his eyes. He wandered out, drawn by the smell, eyeing the massive pot like a hungry mongoose.

"No touch 'em," Grandpa murmured without opening his eyes, waving a hand lazily in the air. "Da laulau gotta steam slow, boy. You rush the fire, the luau leaf going make your throat itch. Go grab one green bottle from the fridge and sit down. We eat when the sun touch the water."