lilikoi

The term "lilikoi" is universally used across Hawaii by locals of all backgrounds to refer to passion fruit (Passiflora edulis). Introduced to the islands in the late 19th century, the fruit thrived in Hawaii's climate and quickly became a staple flavor in local cuisine, found in everything from shave ice syrups and malasada fillings to butter spreads and chiffon pies. Using the mainland term "passion fruit" is a dead giveaway that someone is a visitor, as residents exclusively use the Hawaiian word in both casual conversation and commercial packaging. It is appropriate in any setting, whether haggling at a farmers market or ordering at a high-end restaurant, and carries a deep sense of local culinary pride.

Manny wiped down the counter of his Kaunakakai shop for the fourth time that morning, glaring at the dust blowing in from Ala Malama Avenue. He was already irritated that the bakery shorted him on pan de sal, and now this tourist in a matching floral set was holding up the line, pointing at the handwritten sign above the fruit baskets.

"Excuse me, do you have any of that passion fruit? The yellow ones?" she asked, leaning over the glass case. Manny sighed, his thick Portuguese eyebrows knitting together. He tapped the cardboard sign with a calloused finger. "Lady, da sign say lilikoi. We no call 'em passion fruit over here. You want lilikoi or what?"

The woman blinked, looking offended, while the two Moloka'i High kids behind her snickered. Manny grabbed a plastic bag, shoved half a dozen wrinkled yellow fruits inside, and slammed it on the counter. "Five bucks. And when you go home, you tell everybody you ate lilikoi, eh? Passion fruit sound like one cheap perfume."